Balancing diet for dog with GI issues

[RandyC]

Hi @Dr. Jeff

We have a few questions regarding ChewChew's diet.

We have been keeping ChewChew's diet the same to monitor any changes after giving him Nux vomica. In the last 1.5 weeks we have not observed any obvious/consistent changes regarding to his bowel or stool. He's been getting beef for his main food, 1/2 - 3/4 boiled egg, 3/4 teaspoon Ion biome, 2 teaspoon raw goats milk, and freeze dried beef lung for treats/snuffle mat.

Also, ChewChew is feeling a little too thin right now. We just weighted him. He's now about 25.7 lbs (was 27 lbs). BUT, it's our fault. We realized that we miscalculated how much food he was supposed to get and have been giving him too little ?. We have increased the amount of beef the last 2 days.

There are a lot of things we'd like to add back into his diet, such as other types of meat, chicken feet, organs, and fish oil (omega 3). There are also some new things we'd like to try, such as blended veggies/fruits, increasing the amount of raw goats milk and ion biome, canned sardine, and varying types of treats for snuffle mat.

Our question are -
Is it ok to start changing up the meat/add to what we give him right now? How many changes can we make/how slow should we go?

We have been cutting as much fat as possible off the meat since Feb (we were worried that he might has pancreatitis). Do you think it's necessary to cut off the fat? Could too much fat worsen his condition?

Also, as ChewChew's stool has been loose for a while now, his anal sack is probably filling up (he's been licking his butt and biting the base of his tail), although currently there has been no "butt smell". Are we supposed to heat compress it? Is there any instructions on how to do it?

Thank you so much for taking the time and reading this. We really appreciate all of your help!

 

[Dr. Jeff]

Thanks so much for re-posting these important questions, Randy!

1. It's always wise to only change one intervention at a time. That way you can scientifically determine if the change you make is helping or hurting (or having no effect).

This is especially true so you can see if there are any subtle shifts after a homeopathic medicine.

2. Regarding ChewChew's weight, you said the "magic" words of "feeling a little too thin". Judging his weight visually (and manually) is the best way to assess it. If he feels too thin, feed more depending on his bowel tolerance of the extra food.

3. If he enjoys using it, you can't overdo the snuffle mat. The same is true for therapeutic (loose leash) sniff walks.

4. I'd ordinarily say, "it depends" about the decision whether to introduce other foods now. However, since we haven't had our recheck appointment to assess the Nux, I'd say that it's best to wait.

In general, the answer depends on when the remedy was given, the potency of the remedy (6c, 30c, 200c, Q, etc.) and the details of what has been happening since dosing.

5. Regarding cutting off fat from a raw diet, I'd say that it depends on the quality of the meat. Raw, 100% grass fed fat is good!

However, my preference is to avoid any cooked animal fat as it can irritate the GI tract and trigger pancreatitis and other imbalances. If you are cooking the meat then yes, trim the fat, then boil the meat and skim off the fat.

6. Yes, hot compresses applied 3x a day are a great way to stimulate local circulation and speed homeostasis and healing. You might also want to experiment with adding a fiber supplement to each meal. Start with 1 pinch/meal and evaluate the effect up to about 1/4 scoop of Fiber Detox (the fiber supplement I use):

Holistic Pet Support-Fiber Plus powder - HomeVet

Use Fiber Plus to support healthy bowel and anal gland function.

www.homevet.com

You're welcome, Randy! It is my pleasure and honor to get to answer your questions. ?

 

[RandyC]

@Dr. Jeff Thank you so much for the detailed answers.

We usually judge his weight by feel as his fluffy, thick coat can be deceiving. But, he was feeling and even looking thin. For the longest time he was a little chubby. For reference he was around 30-31 lbs. We used to fed him big chunks of raw meat (bigger than his daily allowance). He tends to overeat if we don't take the meat away in time. Around the start of the pandemic we started to cut his food into daily portions, so his weight dropped to around 27-28 lbs, which feels about right.

It's very interesting to know that it makes a difference whether the fat is raw or cooked. When you say raw, grass fed fat is good, does that mean you'd only feed fat from herbivore (like beef or lamb) and not omnivores (like pork or chicken) even if they are organic/pasture raised? How about the skin?

We used to feed just "regular" supermarket meat as we are not near any farms. We are trying to source better quality (100% grass fed/organic/pasture raised) meat online and would be interested to know any good source.

Thanks always =)

 

[ChristineL]

Hello @RandyC - I feed my Hope (a dog) Answers and meat blends by Souly Raw based in San Diego - high-quality and human-grade food (some meats from same source as Whole Foods). Their air-dried treats are exceptional - I get air-dried hearts of various protein. Most freeze-dried hearts on the market are very greasy but these are not greasy at all and I was told they're hand-sliced. Here's the web link: Soul'y Raw Specialty Pet Food

 

[RandyC]

Hi @ChristineL , thank you so much for the information! They have some interesting products. I'll check out the company and the products in details.
Good to know about the air-dried treats. As we are trying to do more snuffle mat/play/training, I'm looking for trustworthy source for treats, too.

 

[Dr. Jeff]

It's very interesting to know that it makes a difference whether the fat is raw or cooked. When you say raw, grass fed fat is good, does that mean you'd only feed fat from herbivore (like beef or lamb) and not omnivores (like pork or chicken) even if they are organic/pasture raised? How about the skin?

Raw fat and skin from omnivores are fine.

@GinnyW, We'd love to learn from your experience and wisdom. ?

 

[RandyC]

@Dr. Jeff thank you for your reply and tagging @GinnyW for her wisdom.

While we are on the subject of nutritions through food, is there any organ (or any part of the animals) that you wouldn't/shouldn't feed? Would love to hear anyone's opinion/experience.

I see Raw Feeding Miami mentioned on the other forum discussions. They have interesting parts that I've never seen nor fed before (ovaries, uterus, eyeballs...). That's why I'm wondering.

 

[GinnyW]

Oookay; here I am.... Fat is good food no matter what, but some sources are better than others. Grass-fed, from any animal, is best. Organic, but with grains in feed, etc. would be second best. Commercial chickens are pretty low quality in nutritional profile, but, since they only live about 6 weeks, they don't have much chance to develop ugly fat stores. The ones that brag they are raised on vegetarian diets are fed a lot of corn and soy, so not so great there in any case. I feed commercial grade pork, but not often. I would feed any organ from any animal, pretty much. Liver is the nutritional powerhouse, with heart and kidneys right up there, too. Spleen, pancreas, brain... Green tripe is wonderful "Green" means lightly washed, not sterilized. All tripe sold for humans is cooked and pretty useless. Fish oil should be from smaller fish like sardines and mackerel. It can be bought in bulk and frozen indefinitely until used. Krill oil is a great supplemental fat. I would stay away from vegetable oils, although coconut oil is fine, and MCT oil, which is derived from coconut, is a useful supplement. Eggs are wonderful; farm-raised are better.
You can feed fat up to tolerance, even 50% or so if maintaining variety overall. All carnivores go for fat first As for the "odd" organs, I wouldn't pass if they were cheap and handy, but I wouldn't source them on purpose, either - no particular benefit I can see. Okay, ask anything else

 

[Dr. Jeff]

You're welcome Randy!

The only organ to avoid is the brain! Otherwise, it depends on whether ChewChew likes the particular gland or organ.

If you can't find a good source for any particular gland or organ, Dr. Swift's G.O.s are great:

Heart & Kidney Support | My Pets Friend

www.mypetsfriend.com

Thyro GO-thyroid support 8 oz. powder - HomeVet

Glands are organs that secrete substances which produce a physiological response. Endocrine glands secrete hormones such as insulin and estrogen. The endocrine system is involved in all facets of the body's metabolism.

www.homevet.com

 

[Dr. Jeff]

Thanks for sharing your wisdom, Ginny.

 

[RandyC]

Wow @GinnyW thank you so much for the wealth of information! Really appreciate it.
So does that mean as far as organs go, as long as you have liver + kidneys + heart you wouldn't worry too much about getting the other organs?

Also, do you feed large chunk of meat (bigger than 1 meal portion)? What do you feel is the best practice for the leftover food? Do you feel it's safe to put it back in the fridge and feed it over the next few days?

@Dr. Jeff thank you so much for your reply and supplement recommendations!

What's the reason for not feeding brain? Are chicken and duck heads (with brain) ok to feed?

 

[Dr. Jeff]

YW Randy. ?

1. A wide variety of organs, and other meats, is among the best way to help balance out his microbiome.

Many of the raw meat blends contain a variety of glands and organs, however another way to add variety is with Dr. Swift's Pet GO. Here's more about what it contains:

Glandular Therapy

Glands are organs that secrete substances which produce a physiological response. They need nutritional support like other tissues. Exocrine glands secrete onto the skin or mucous membranes. Endocrine glands secrete substances whose functions are within the body e.g. insulin. The endocrine...

www.mypetsfriend.com

2. Larger chunks of meat are a wonderful way to maintain healthy teeth and gums and help exercise the musculature around his mouth.

3. Yes, it is usually safe. Ginny can likely elaborate.

4. It is a personal preference to minimize or avoid feeding all brain to reduce exposure to prions (like of Mad Cow). However, many raw feeders use brain. Below is an article about feeding organ meats including brain. I'm curious to hear what Ginny has to say from her experience.

The #1 Mistake Raw Feeders Make With Organ Meats - Dogs Naturally

If you feed your dog a raw diet, you might be making the same mistake as everyone else. Is your dog missing out when it comes to organ meats?

www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com

 

[GinnyW]

That's a really useful article! I think that, from a practical standpoint, heart/liver/kidneys are a great start. The whole raw feeding premise is that we are looking to simulate a fresh whole kill. One guiding principle we hear is "balance over time" and this can apply to amounts as well as types of meat. You don't have to feed everything everyday, or even every week or month Certainly, organ meat blend products go a long ways towards covering the bases, where you can put a few ounces into almost any meal......I recall info that says dogs have never suffered ill effects from mad cow prions, but of course we don't get those organs offered to us often. We used to eat - us, the humans - lamb and pork brains regularly, when I was a kid. They're much harder to source now. I don't get fresh deer carcasses often, but when I have, I let the dogs eat what they want, and break the heads open for them....OK, on the other topic: feasting and fasting is natural and healthy for canids. They have capacious stomachs that open like accordions, and can eat until they can hardly walk. Then they go sleep it off, and often refuse meals even if offered. Of course, you have to be cautious if your dog is one of those nut cases and wants to stuff himself every day. But generally, feast-and-fast, or at least big meal, small meals, is a prototypical way to feed, and, I think, beneficial to the entire system. I also, for related reasons, only feed once a day. Digestion is hard work, and all meat-eating animals do better metabolically with time-restricted eating - including us. Feed a generous meal one day, and just a bit the next one or two - a raw egg, perhaps, or a chicken wing, etc. depending on size, of course. Hard to enforce, with our spoiled kids, but very beneficial - this for healthy animals, of course, not the compromised where we are meeting special nutritional needs. And, supplements of organ factors can be very valuable where access to meats is limited. There is a LOT of latitude in raw feeding: you can experiment, or stay simple, but variety of type, quantity, frequency, etc. is the best principle. And DO go look up "Dogs in Elk"

 

[GinnyW]

Oh, and, yes, they can handle any old, rotten, nasty meats just fine. I'd be careful feeding mixes or tightly covered foods older than a day or two, but you can leave big chunks or bones uncovered in the fridge.and they just get better

 

[Dr. Jeff]

Wow, awe-some info Ginny, thanks for your great post!

I'd be careful feeding mixes or tightly covered foods older than a day or two,

Why the warning against tightly covered foods?

 

[GinnyW]

They tend to go anaerobic, and those are some bugs we don't want, most likely. Meats left out develop bacteria of different sorts, and the meat gets sweeter and softer. Dry-aged beef is highly prized in gourmet circles, for instance.

 

[ChristineL]

feast-and-fast, or at least big meal, small meals, is a prototypical way to feed, and, I think, beneficial to the entire system. I also, for related reasons, only feed once a day. Digestion is hard work, and all meat-eating animals do better metabolically with time-restricted eating - including us

Hi @GinnyW Thank you so much for the super helpful info; I'm learning so much from you. May I trouble you to elaborate more on "fasting" - how often and long should we fast our dogs? Feeding big meals would not be ideal for dogs with digestion issues (i.e., regurgitation after meal), right? If we were to break a large meal into smaller portions, what would you suggest we do in terms of frequency of feeding - within a few hours or throughout the day?

 

[GinnyW]

Ah, this is gonna be one of those "know thy dog" answers Ideally, fasting would only follow a huge, bounteous meal - and I would think of one that takes some time and effort, which means raw meaty bones. A rack of ribs, a whole rabbit, a chicken, a shoulder roast. They should finish it or not, but don't take it away; let them get done and then put it up. Be sure to tell them they will get it back Most of the bone, if not all, should be edible. After this, a dog shouldn't want food for a day or two, or more. Now, if we are "creating" a fasting regime by simply feeding a large amount, much of the stimulus and effort will not be there. This is significant, because it means far less digestive enzymes are secreted, food will be "dumped" on the system, jaw muscles get no exercise, peristalsis is not stimulated, and the whole meal is harder to process and utilize. The stomach says, "Oh, crap! Now what'll I do?". I'll bet this is where a lot of the vomiting happens - in any case, most vomiting is an effort to "rearrange" a bulky meal that just doesn't sit right. The dog can re-eat it, or not....Story time: My first Amstaff was really good at tossing up a meal; he'd eat it all, any size meal, and then, if I touched his cheek or his throat, brushed his chest, even waved a dishcloth in his direction, he would obligingly lay out his dinner in a nice line for me - actually, for the pups that weren't there; this is an ancient behavior. I'd thank him profusely, and tell him I just didn't need it right now, and that it would be fine if he'd eat it up again. And he did. So, anyway, vomiting is useful, easy, and not always a sign of trouble. So, speaking of symptoms, we have to look for the "real" symptom hiding in the behavior.....More follows:

 

[ChristineL]

vomiting is useful, easy, and not always a sign of trouble

I'm glad to hear this! My pup just vomited - First time since I got her! See my post here "Appetite" dropped in BEAM - wait and see?

Thank you for the great resource. I look forward to your "More follows:"

 

[GinnyW]

So, given that resting the system between intakes is a very good thing, how do we design a pattern that fits both dog and human? Dogs are creatures of habit, and easily grow accustomed to mealtimes, exhibiting "hunger", barking, staring, throwing themselves on the floor despondently. You know the drill, as do they. I would train them the same way I would train a human, gradually to stretch the time they go without food, firstly to get to once a day. You can do this by starting with a window of, say, eight hours between what we might call breakfast and dinner. This leaves sixteen hours of fasting - not a bad start. Now, start moving breakfast up closer to dinner, and making it smaller, until you have a little snack-sized treat. Then move that up even closer, and put it in the dinner dish along with the meal. There ya go! The dog is not suffering, and he is retrained physically. Use the same principle to make dinner smaller every other day, until one day you can skip it, and maybe give a treat somewhere around the time, but not in the same place or circumstance - a cookie in the yard, for instance, or just training treats for work performed. For a healthy dog, intermittent fasting is extremely productive, turning on all sorts of intracellular metabolic processes. If you have a dog who absolutely has to have nutrition trickling in, because of organic illness, of course you want to cater to that. But otherwise, don't be shy of examining changing existing patterns which are only habitual. There is tremendous value in liberating the body from all that bother and work, and giving it more resources to work on its issues. Yeah, ask more...